The hair problem
The day arrives, a day that sends shivers through my toothbrush … it’s the day of the haircut. This dreaded day I am in Naples, Italy and about to pay my first visit to one of the city’s hairdressers.
In a froth of toothpaste I imagine a salon crowded with suntanned, Latin loveliness … icy, manicured fingernails stab down my spine.
A look back (first published on 24 December 2015): Christmas in Naples – different but not so different.
A Christmas light by the San Paolo football stadium in Naples, Italy
The sun shines in Naples and the streets are full. Many are just out for the occasion, to watch and be watched, and others to shop, to sell, to beg, to walk the dog.
It’s definitely Christmas but it never stops being Naples – nothing is drowned in jingles or jolliness.
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A look back (first published 16 August 2016): Napoli is built like a sfogliatella, with layers that rise up from the seafront to the heights of Camaldoli. On, in and under every ridge lie treasures, and the Toledo Metro Station is one of them.
How do you persuade anyone to use the underground metro in Naples?
A year ago I arrived in Naples – one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. Over the months since I’ve explored miles and miles of its old centre, of its sfogliatelle layers, but I’ve never been tempted to use its metro. Why would I? Why miss any of the city’s light and life for a second?
Well … turns out I was tempted recently, and there were two reasons.
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The Phraser 