Tag Archives: Italy

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Burned, buried and brought back to life

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A look back (first published 17 February 2015): discovering the secrets of the papyrus scrolls of Herculaneum, now in the National Library in Naples, Italy.

thephraser's avatarThe Phraser

Library of Naples Library of Naples
Biblioteca Nazionale di Napoli

It’s never a good idea to judge anything by appearances.  Here’s an example.

Mid-autumn of last year I was new in Naples.  The language was a challenge and I still didn’t know my way around.  The city seemed hectic and disheveled.

Then, on a wet Wednesday in November, I was invited on a trip to the Biblioteca Nazionale di Napoli.

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An elephant, a bird, and an offer

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A look back (first published 14 February 2015)

thephraser's avatarThe Phraser

Carved elephant An irresistible elephant

I wasn’t looking for any of the above but somehow they found me.  That’s what Naples does.

My elephant – she’s now mine – spent days for sale on the steep, wintery steps outside the huge post office near the city centre.

I passed her twice a week en route to class.  It was hard to miss her.  My head was full of elephants and there she was, big and awkward in amongst the trinkets and faded pictures.

Then yesterday, on an impulse, I roped together my Italian and my courage, and paused.

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The best drivers in the world?

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A look back (first published 12 February 2015): this was an evening that confirmed what I had begun to realise about driving in Naples … that rules and road rage are for wimps, and that care and courage are what’s needed. As well-trained wimps we had a lot to learn.

thephraser's avatarThe Phraser

The roads into Naples The roads that dive off the tangenziale into Naples

“Are you sure you know the way?”

“Yes.”

“Is it really better than my way?”

“Yes.”   Louder, wounded, exasperated, emphatic.

“Okay – your directions have got to be clear.”  Ominous …

The tyres rattle and echo off the tunnel walls.  It’s six o’clock in the evening, a bright, dark night and all of Naples seems in a rush to get somewhere.

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