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Luci d’Artista (Artists’ Lights) in the port city of Salerno, Italy

A look back (first published 22 January 2016): One of my strongest childhood memories is of the dazzle and excitement of Christmas lights in a city park – in Salerno last year I saw the magic again. It’s hard to resist – why would you want to anyway?

thephraser's avatarThe Phraser

The Castello di Arechi in Salerno looks down on the Luci d'Artista The Castello di Arechi in Salerno looks down on the Luci d’Artista

The dark months of winter can be full of gloom.  This is true everywhere but in the south of Italy it feels personal.

Here the point is the sun.  Without it there is no light on the sea, no sun in your glass, no need for riposo.

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2015 – Christmas in Naples, Italy, from the outside

A look back (first published on 24 December 2015): Christmas in Naples – different but not so different.

thephraser's avatarThe Phraser

A Christmas light by the San Paolo football stadium in Naples, Italy A Christmas light by the San Paolo football stadium in Naples, Italy

The sun shines in Naples and the streets are full.  Many are just out for the occasion, to watch and be watched, and others to shop, to sell, to beg, to walk the dog.

It’s definitely Christmas but it never stops being Naples – nothing is drowned in jingles or jolliness.

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The horse that followed me to Benevento

A look back (first published in April 2015): since this visit to Benevento I’ve discovered another horse of Mimmo Paladino’s in Naples. This horse, possibly even more striking than the others, stands on the roof of the MADRE (Museum of contemporary Art DonnaREgina) in the city.

thephraser's avatarThe Phraser

Reflection of the horse that followed me to Benevento Reflection of the horse that followed me to Benevento

I didn’t expect to see the horse.  The guidebooks never mentioned that one would be there, nor that others would be hidden in the same space.

My first sight of the horse was in Naples.  He’s tucked around the back of the Royal Palace where he struggles to climb out of a mound of salt.  You don’t forget horses like that.

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