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Napoli wore pearls yesterday

vi

A look back (first published 7.1.16): Days without sunshine in Naples, Italy feel wrong … but when they pass the relief is like the burst of light at the end of an unexpected tunnel.

thephraser's avatarThe Phraser

Vesuvius at the end of the Lungomare in Naples, Italy Vesuvius at the end of the Lungomare in Naples, Italy

When light bounces off the sea, then rises up through blue sky towards the sun it takes your heart with it … at least it does on the seafront in Naples, Italy.  It’s impossible to resist, like a balloon freed by the breeze, up and up it goes.

Yesterday was one of those days.

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Unknown's avatar

I’ve just read the Napoli section of Goethe’s ‘Italian Journey’

A look back (first published on 6 January 2016): Naples is not a ‘do-in-a-day-city’ – it’s a city with roots, a city that takes time, a city that feels like it might be time itself. Even Goethe lost his rhythm here.

thephraser's avatarThe Phraser

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (portrait by Stieler 1828)

There are names I heard at school that are still buried beneath teacher dust. Names I’ve never looked at again – unreachable, academic names.  Goethe was one of them.

Then, a few weeks ago, I bumped into him on the internet and I read his notes on Naples.  They were a happy find.

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Unknown's avatar

The haircut – Naples, Italy

The hair problem

The hair problem

The day arrives, a day that sends shivers through my toothbrush … it’s the day of the haircut.  This dreaded day I am in Naples, Italy and about to pay my first visit to one of the city’s hairdressers.

In a froth of toothpaste I imagine a salon crowded with suntanned, Latin loveliness … icy, manicured fingernails stab down my spine.

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