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Some more about Smithfield, London

This is a postcard so I’ll just keep it to snippets I’ve picked up during wanderings around this part of London.

I love the Smithfield area. To me it still has real character. It feels individual and properly alive, with some of its medieval roots still visible thanks to being spared by the Great Fire of London in 1666. It also seems to have resisted the need to stagger upwards into high-rise and glass, or to fill itself with corporate chains.

The old market itself is divided into many parts. Last night we walked through the section that links Long Lane to the start of Cow Cross Street. It felt a little quieter than usual, perhaps because the market is preparing for relocation. Its buildings are due to be taken over by the Museum of London.

Strange to think that the market’s been there since at least 1381, when the old city banned the slaughter of livestock within its walls, and forced the trade out to Smoothfield. Smoothfield then became Smithfield, and Smithfield became increasingly associated with butchery. Crowds of animals came and went, either alive or as carcasses. So did a number of men and women – some being tortured, some burned, some executed, and others hung, drawn, and quartered. Quite gruesome, but it wasn’t all like that.

The medieval priory of St Bartholomew’s used to be on the other side of Smithfield. It flourished until Henry VIII took against it, but thankfully its hospital and one of its old churches survived, both of them flourishing again and celebrating their 900th anniversary this year.

Maybe it’s their prayers and healing that have balanced out the bloody scars, leaving the soul of Smithfield at peace.

Copyright Georgie Knaggs & The Phraser 2023

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The leaves are still with us

Saturday gave us a beautifully warm afternoon, and the chance for a walk in the Surrey Hills in England.

These hills are classified as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), earning that protection and status in 1949 when the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act was passed. Today there are 46 such areas in the UK, and they cover almost one fifth of the land. They are not national parks but they enjoy a similar status, with the aim being to safeguard them for the benefit and enjoyment of everyone.

I think the Surrey Hills are beautiful. They are not dramatic hills but they undulate gently, covered in trees and the quiet that comes with such cover. And the trees are big trees. We were beneath pine for a lot of our walk, with sweet chestnut, oak and beech scattered through them, and occasional walkers with their dogs glimpsed along the network of paths. It was a lovely peaceful hour or so in a late summer woodland.

I hope you had a good Saturday.

Copyright Georgie Knaggs & The Phraser 2023

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All the fun of the fair

Today was the first day back for Bartholomew Fair. We found information about it on a visit to St Bartholomew the Great.

Turns out it was a good place to read the news, because the Fair began not far from where the old church stands. The road running beside the church is called Cloth Fair and I suppose that must link back to the original fairs, which apparently were all about cloth and fabric, the aim being to raise funds for the Priory that used to be there.

The Fair’s first charter was granted by Henry 1 in 1133, and it seems to have started off quietly enough, but it sounds like it grew into a riot of dodgy entertainment until it either fell off, or was kicked off, the stage in 1855. The beautifully illustrated souvenir edition of The Courant gives a tasty flavour of all the comings and goings.

Anyway, roll on to this year, almost 900 years later, and things are kicking off again. Today I saw acrobats on St Paul’s, clowns and entertainment in Pater Noster Square, music popping up around the corners, and plenty on for children. It all felt very cheerful.

Might be worth a look if you’re anywhere near the City before 16 September. Looks like it will be moving around the place a bit so best to check at thecityofldn.com.

Copyright Georgie Knaggs & The Phraser 2023