Unknown's avatar

Some more about Smithfield, London

This is a postcard so I’ll just keep it to snippets I’ve picked up during wanderings around this part of London.

I love the Smithfield area. To me it still has real character. It feels individual and properly alive, with some of its medieval roots still visible thanks to being spared by the Great Fire of London in 1666. It also seems to have resisted the need to stagger upwards into high-rise and glass, or to fill itself with corporate chains.

The old market itself is divided into many parts. Last night we walked through the section that links Long Lane to the start of Cow Cross Street. It felt a little quieter than usual, perhaps because the market is preparing for relocation. Its buildings are due to be taken over by the Museum of London.

Strange to think that the market’s been there since at least 1381, when the old city banned the slaughter of livestock within its walls, and forced the trade out to Smoothfield. Smoothfield then became Smithfield, and Smithfield became increasingly associated with butchery. Crowds of animals came and went, either alive or as carcasses. So did a number of men and women – some being tortured, some burned, some executed, and others hung, drawn, and quartered. Quite gruesome, but it wasn’t all like that.

The medieval priory of St Bartholomew’s used to be on the other side of Smithfield. It flourished until Henry VIII took against it, but thankfully its hospital and one of its old churches survived, both of them flourishing again and celebrating their 900th anniversary this year.

Maybe it’s their prayers and healing that have balanced out the bloody scars, leaving the soul of Smithfield at peace.

Copyright Georgie Knaggs & The Phraser 2023

Unknown's avatar

The leaves are still with us

Saturday gave us a beautifully warm afternoon, and the chance for a walk in the Surrey Hills in England.

These hills are classified as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), earning that protection and status in 1949 when the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act was passed. Today there are 46 such areas in the UK, and they cover almost one fifth of the land. They are not national parks but they enjoy a similar status, with the aim being to safeguard them for the benefit and enjoyment of everyone.

I think the Surrey Hills are beautiful. They are not dramatic hills but they undulate gently, covered in trees and the quiet that comes with such cover. And the trees are big trees. We were beneath pine for a lot of our walk, with sweet chestnut, oak and beech scattered through them, and occasional walkers with their dogs glimpsed along the network of paths. It was a lovely peaceful hour or so in a late summer woodland.

I hope you had a good Saturday.

Copyright Georgie Knaggs & The Phraser 2023

Unknown's avatar

A one stop trip on the Elizabeth Line

Lockdown cracked my London Tube habit. I no longer dive underground as soon as a destination is suggested – I walk. However, just occasionally, I run out of time or get tempted, and it’s usually the Elizabeth Line that does the tempting.

Today I had to travel from Farringdon to Tottenham Court Road. My timings were on the edge by the time I reached Farringdon, so I walked down the two, steep and gleaming escalators to the curve of white tunnel that leads out on to the platform. Wide as a beach this stretched into the distance, everything muted, even the trains. I don’t think I heard a single announcement while I was down there, waiting briefly for the next train to hum in and whisk me on to Tottenham Court Road.

My return journey, a couple of hours later, and a few carrier bags heavier, was just as smooth. And empty. And relaxing.

I think the Elizabeth Line is such an achievement, well worth the 13 years it took to tunnel the 73 miles, east to west. It cost around £19bn which I can’t begin to imagine, but perhaps that’s what you have to pay if you want capacity for around 200 million passengers a year.

Thankfully there were not many of them travelling mid-morning with me today.

Copyright Georgie Knaggs & The Phraser 2023