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A day under an umbrella in Cetara, on the Amalfi Coast in Italy

View through to the sea in Cetara, at the eastern end of the Amalfi Coast

View through to the sea in Cetara, at the eastern end of the Amalfi Coast

It’s mid-week and warm.  We’re in a fishing village, between a sea-blue sky and its beach below, with hardly a tourist in sight.

The name of the small town is Cetara, on the Amalfi Coast.

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Lago d’Averno – the Gates of Hell

Ducks on Lago d'Averno

Ducks on Lago d’Averno – supping at the threshold of the underworld

Some names stick, along with all the muck that goes with them; other names, that make the bones shiver, don’t budge and it makes no sense at all.

The ‘gates of hell’ near today’s Cuma is an ancient mythical name given to a lake that today is about as rattlesnake as Homer Simpson.

It was the dog that took us there first.  Someone had said Lago d’Averno would be perfect …

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A ‘sagra’ on an old Roman road north of Naples, Italy

Bees swarming at the 'Sagra delle antiche taverne'

Bees swarming at the ‘Sagra delle antiche taverne’

‘Sagre‘, and this was our first, are the right-in-the-thick-of-it festival celebrations that usually revolve around food.

Originally the meaning was linked to churches and the Latin word sacrum – holy.  Now they are still about expectation and celebration, but often with a local speciality centre stage rather than the church.

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