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The best drivers in the world?

A look back (first published 12 February 2015): this was an evening that confirmed what I had begun to realise about driving in Naples … that rules and road rage are for wimps, and that care and courage are what’s needed. As well-trained wimps we had a lot to learn.

thephraser's avatarThe Phraser

The roads into Naples The roads that dive off the tangenziale into Naples

“Are you sure you know the way?”

“Yes.”

“Is it really better than my way?”

“Yes.”   Louder, wounded, exasperated, emphatic.

“Okay – your directions have got to be clear.”  Ominous …

The tyres rattle and echo off the tunnel walls.  It’s six o’clock in the evening, a bright, dark night and all of Naples seems in a rush to get somewhere.

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Naples loves music

A look back (first published 10 February 2015)

thephraser's avatarThe Phraser

Buskers in Naples Buskers in Naples

Naples loves to have music – classical music, world music, new music, Neapolitan songs – music from palazzo to piazza, music that breaks your heart and throws you up to the sky all at once.

Take a stroll down Via Toledo any day of the week and the chances are that somebody somewhere will play you a tune and they’ll play it well.

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Fear amongst the ceramics on the Amalfi Coast

A look back (first published 22 January 2015)

thephraser's avatarThe Phraser

Mural outside Industria Ceramica Avallone in Vietri sul Mare Large tile mural by the entrance to Industria Ceramica Avallone in Vietri sul Mare

No – no foto!”  The small, elderly woman hustled through the piled plates towards us.

Non posso fare …?”  My bad Italian faltered.

No!”  Her finger flicked sternly from side to side as she halted in front of us, dark eyes flashing with suspicion.

“Who are you?”  The slow English syllables were weighted with menace.

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