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Earthquake, avalanche and cold in central Italy

2016 - spring skiing in Abruzzo

2016 – spring skiing in Abruzzo

The news drifts through, fearful and frozen, from isolated villages in the mountains of Italy.  I sit and watch on a device I can fit in the palm of my warm hand, in front of a fire in a well-lit room … at least there are no reports of casualties.

That was last night.  Today is the news that a hotel in Abruzzo has been hit by an avalanche – 30 feared dead.  A chill creeps down my spine … I read reports of the first, frantic, unheeded efforts to raise the alarm.

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Madre: the museum of contemporary art in Napoli

This piece, first published in April 2016, was written after my first visit to the Madre in Naples. I loved the museum’s calm space, the range of its exhibits … and its roof terrace.

thephraser's avatarThe Phraser

Internal courtyard of the Museo Madre in Naples, Italy with art by Mimmo Paladino on the roof Internal courtyard of the Museo Madre in Naples, Italy with art by Mimmo Paladino on the roof

Art is a place to be, a place that tries to reach us, provoke us. It swallows the rules, the clocks, the to and fro, and waits for us to respond.

Much of Naples itself is art – ancient, modern, faded, alive – but it does not have the quiet, the spaces between, that the Madre brings to its displays.  This is the luxury of a visit to the Madre, the chance to leave the hectic city and step into its  calm.

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Book Review: Only in Naples by Katherine Wilson

Only in Naples by Katherine Wilson

Only in Naples by Katherine Wilson


Cities are like people … some are packed with character, and others less so.

The city of Naples in Italy is a character, one that can raise you to heaven or leave you in despair.  Johann Goethe was ecstatic; Mark Twain fairly grumpy; Shirley Hazzard inspired; and Elena Ferrante fierce and irresistible.  Now, published in 2016, here’s Katherine Wilson whose style goes straight to the heart of the city.

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